Sleigh Bell Care
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After using bells on a horse, wipe off any dirt, dust, water, or sweat with a soft, damp cloth. If the leather is wet, allow the strap to air dry away from sunlight and direct heat.
Occasionally check the strap for problems. The tongue and the places where bells are attached to their strap are most likely to be damaged. Repair or replace damaged leather promptly to extend the life of your bell strap.
Bells that lie along the sides of your horse are the most likely to be broken or cracked. Remove broken and severely cracked bells if there is a chance that they could injure you or your horse.
Storage and display. Store or display your bells protected from extremes of temperature and humidity and out of the reach of insects, mice, and teething puppies.
If you plan to display or store your bells by hanging them on the wall, either hang the unbuckled strap from its buckle or drape the strap over a large diameter support, such as a bridle bracket or garden hose hanger. If you drape a bell strap over a narrow hook, eventually the leather will crack and deteriorate where it is stressed by being bent too sharply.
If you want to wrap your bells so they stay clean during storage, use an old sheet, toweling, tissue paper, or other clean, breathable material. Avoid plastic which may cause mildew or may discolor the leather or bells.
Conditioning. Preserve the flexibility and appearance of the leather by occasionally wiping on a thin layer of a good quality leather dressing.
We use Harness Honey leather conditioner because it is water repellent, resists mildew, and does not make the leather feel oily or sticky, but Lexol and Leather Therapy products also work well. Purchase Harness Honey.
Avoid heavy greasy or oily conditioners such as mink oil, neatsfoot oil or Sno Seal. They tend to make the leather limp, oily, and mildew prone. The only time I might use these products on a bell strap is if it is used a lot in all kinds of weather.
Regardless of the product you use, apply the dressing carefully and sparingly to the leather only. If the surface of the leather is still oily or sticky 24 hours after application, you've put too much on!
Cleaning. If the leather strap is very dirty, use a gentle cleaner specifically meant for leather -- farm and tack stores are good places to locate such products. I do not personally like to use saddle soap on a bell strap, but I think products from Lexol or Leather Therapy work well.
In a pinch, you can use a small squirt of hand dishwashing detergent in cool water, but please avoid homemade concoctions with vinegar, oils, ammonia, or salt in them.
Work the cleaner over and into the leather, following product instructions. Clean fragile old leather gently to prevent it from cracking further or losing its surface finish -- take your time and don't scrub or rub hard! Good cleaning tools are your fingers, soft paint brushes, and cotton swabs.
Rinse well with cool water to make sure all of the cleaner is thoroughly removed from the bells and out of crevices in the leather. Wipe with a soft cloth to remove excess water. Let the strap dry flat, away from sunlight and direct heat. When the leather is just damp, wipe on a thin coat of leather conditioner (see previous section.)
Lacquered. If the bells are lacquered, clean them as you would a painted surface -- with water or mild water-based cleaner and a soft, clean cloth. Do not use alcohol or other solvents, metal polishes, abrasive cleaners, or abrasive pads.
Unlacquered. Polish unlacquered bells before they get badly oxidized -- the work will be much easier and faster and the results more pleasing.
If the bells on your strap will need a lot of work to brighten them up, we strongly recommend removing them from the strap if possible and cleaning them as described below in "Loose bells."
If the bells cannot be removed from the strap, use care when polishing them to avoid staining or damaging the leather. Wipe the polish off well -- any residues may cause brass corrosion and leather damage and leave black marks on your horse, walls, and clothing.
For light tarnish, a dry jeweler's rouge polishing cloth works quickly and well. This product is available from jewelry stores, online merchants, and department stores. For heavier oxidation, we recommend using a polish in a paste, lotion, or "wadding" formulation. This type of product will not run or drip easily as a liquid polish.
Avoid products, such as Brasso or Noxon, that contain large amounts of acid or ammonia, or homemade concoctions that call for tomato or lemon juice, vinegar, ammonia or salt. These products can cause metal corrosion or leather damage if they are not thoroughly removed from crevices.
Cleaning and polishing. If the bells are coated with lacquer, paint, or other finish, you will first need to remove the coating with a suitable solvent or stripper. Carefully follow the manufacturer's directions for use -- these products are usually flammable or poisonous.
Next, soak the bells in hot water and a good squirt of hand dishwashing detergent for a day or so. (Do not use detergent meant for dishwashing machines -- chlorine bleach is not good for brass.) Be sure the bells are completely submerged in the water at all times while soaking so the metal does not discolor at the "water line".
Soaking the bells will loosen the old harness oil and dirt that often coats old sleigh bells, inside and out. The bells will sound better and your job of polishing will be easier.
After soaking the bells, rinse the bells with clear water. Use a mild abrasive pad, such as the kind used on non-stick pans, to scrub off any remaining loose grime that comes off easily. Remove foreign material lurking inside the bells with a toothpick or other slender tool.
When the bells are clean, use a good quality brass cleaner and elbow grease to remove the remaining oxidation. (By the way, Brasso or Noxon are fine products to use on loose bells -- there is no leather to worry about.)
Please ... avoid strong acids and coarse abrasives. If you change the surface texture or color of the bell metal or remove design details, you are reducing the historic and collectible value of your bells.
We clean, polish and lacquer loose bells! Polishing sleigh bells by hand is a tedious, grimy job that very few people (including me) enjoy. You may want to consider sending your sleigh bells to us instead. We can clean, polish and lacquer your bells for a very reasonable cost. Please contact us to make arrangements.
Lacquering. For polished bells that are on display or will only see light use, we recommend coating them with a clear lacquer to preserve the shine. Bells that will be used regularly will look their best if they are left uncoated and hand polished as needed.
Choose a good-quality clear gloss lacquer formulated for indoor and outdoor metal items. One spray can will be more than enough for 30-60 bells.
We do not recommend using polyurethane or epoxy. These coatings are much more difficult to repair or remove than lacquer. They also tend to yellow more with age.
Before lacquering, degrease your cleaned and polished bells with denatured alcohol or other suitable solvent. Make sure all traces of oils and waxes are thoroughly removed.
Handle degreased bells with exam gloves or clean paper towels. This will prevent acids and oils on your skin from contaminating the clean surface. Allow the bells to dry thoroughly before applying any finish.
Following the manufacturer's directions, spray the bells with three or four light coats of lacquer. Keep the coats very thin, especially the first coat, to reduce the risk of drips and runs.
Allow the last coat of lacquer to dry thoroughly -- at least 12 hours -- before you handle or use the bells.